What wattage heater do I need for my tank?

Use roughly 1 W per litre of water: 50 W for tanks up to 50 L, 100 W for 50–100 L, 200 W for 100–200 L, 300 W for 200–300 L. In cold rooms, step up one size.

Glass, quartz or titanium heater?

Glass is the budget default for freshwater tanks under 200 L. Quartz is shatter-resistant and heats faster — better for marine tanks. Titanium suits large or aggressive setups but costs the most.

Should I stock manual or digital heaters?

Carry both: a value glass line with a built-in thermostat, and a premium quartz or glass line with an external digital controller (±0.5°C accuracy). Controllers add visible value buyers pay for.

Why do heaters fail after import?

The most common cause is voltage mismatch — a 110V heater plugged into a 230V grid fails instantly. Confirm your market split and order 110V/220V variants with the correct plugs.

Aquarium Heater Wattage Guide: Match Power to Tank Size

Wattage is the first decision, and most importers get it wrong

A heater that is too weak runs constantly and still can’t hold temperature; one that is too strong overheats small tanks and stresses fish. Getting wattage right matters before you order, because it decides the SKUs you stock.

1. The 1 watt per litre rule

A practical rule for tropical tanks: use roughly 1 W of heating power per litre of water. A 50 L tank wants a 50 W heater, a 100 L tank a 100 W heater. For rooms that run cooler than 20°C, step up one size — a 200 W heater for a 150 L tank in an unheated basement.

2. Tank size to wattage table

50 W suits tanks up to 50 L (small desktop tanks, betta tanks). 100 W suits 50–100 L (standard nano-to-mid tanks). 200 W suits 100–200 L (common display tanks). 300 W suits 200–300 L, and 500 W suits 300–500 L or heavily stocked tanks. Stocking 4 wattages (50/100/200/300 W) covers the majority of retail demand with a single model family.

3. Glass vs quartz vs titanium

Glass heaters are the budget default and fine for freshwater tanks under 200 L. Quartz tubes are shatter-resistant and heat faster — a better fit for marine tanks. Titanium heaters cost more but suit large or aggressive setups where breakage is a real risk. For most importers, glass plus one quartz line is the right mix.

4. Manual vs digital external controller

Built-in thermostats are cheap but drift over time. External digital controllers hold temperature within ±0.5°C and add visible value on the shelf — buyers will pay more for a heater with a readout. Carry both: a value glass line and a premium quartz-with-controller line.

5. Voltage and plug variants

Heaters are the most voltage-sensitive item in an aquarium store. Stock 110V for the US/Canada market and 220V for EU/UK/AU, with the correct plug. A wrong voltage heater fails instantly — and warranty returns on heaters are the #1 cost for new importers. Confirm your market split before you place the order.

6. Safety extras that sell

Auto shut-off on dry-run, shatter-proof coating, and heater guards all reduce returns and complaints. A heater guard sleeve costs little and protects both the glass tube and the fish — bundle it or offer it as an add-on at checkout.

How leafcovenant can help

Our heater line covers 50 W to 500 W in glass, quartz and external-controller models, with 110V/220V and US/EU/UK plugs. Four wattages share one design, so you can stock a full range without multiplying SKUs. MOQ starts at 10 pieces per wattage; samples ship in 3–5 days.